This is now my second winter in Rovaniemi. I work for Safartica as a Front Desk representative: anyone who comes to the office is eager to book a husky sled safari, longs for a reindeer encounter, wants to try ice fishing, or test themselves on forest skiing (traditional and much-loved hobbies here).
Almost everyone wants to try and see the Northern Lights. Some choose a bus tour, others a picnic in the woods, some go by snowmobile, while others dive into a frozen lake and gaze at the sky on their backs (an insulated suit keeps out the cold and icy water). But the true protagonists are always the Northern Lights.
According to the most popular legend, a magical fox creates the auroras by striking the snow with its tail as it runs. That’s why, in Finnish, it’s called Revontuli (the fox’s fire). For the Sámi, the ancient indigenous people spread across Finnish, Norwegian, Swedish, and Russian Lapland, the lights are the souls of loved ones reuniting with the living. And indeed, when you watch an aurora moving across the sky, stretching its rays of light from the stars above your head, you realize it is something alive.
I’ve been here since autumn 2022. I have seen the colours of the trees and the earth change. The yellows and reds of the plants, the countless varieties of mushrooms, the powerful scents of the forest, the reindeer grazing by the roadside—everything has passed.
Now Rovaniemi is white and muffled, motionless. The small waterfall outside my house is slowly freezing under the blows of -10°C temperatures, which arrived earlier than expected. By October, I was already shovelling snow and using spikes on my shoes. I commute to work by bike—7 km a day, whether it’s 0°C or -20°C. I have a city bike with studded tires, which makes riding on snow and ice quite easy.
Everything here in Lapland revolves around the climate. As soon as the river freezes, people switch to snowmobiles or cross-country skis (and I sometimes commute on ski, as well!). I go grocery shopping with a sled, as there’s snow everywhere. Some children and elderly people move around on sleds, making it feel like flipping through the pages of an old fairytale book. In November, Christmas stars light up the windows, and people put out food for wild birds—unless the squirrels steal it first.
One thing that never changes is Finland’s favourite hobby: the sauna. Many, me included, have one at home. It’s fired up once or twice a week, and between sessions, you step outside or roll in the snow. It’s great for the skin and circulation. Those who enjoy scents pour a bit of beer onto the stove hot stones to enjoy the roasted aroma. Others add a few drops of essential oil to the stove water—popular scents include pine, eucalyptus, and lavender, but also terva (tar), which is also used to make a delicious smoky-flavored liqueur.
Another beloved tradition is avantouinti, winter swimming in ice-cold water: a pump keeps the water moving so it doesn’t freeze, leaving you the thrill of a chilling dip. I haven’t dared to try it yet, but my brother seems to have enjoyed it a lot.
In many ways, Finland is a perfect country: fair wages, top-tier services and education, and a visible respect for others, even in small things. And don’t get me started on bureaucracy—I always say that visiting a public office in Rovaniemi feels like a spa session. You walk out relaxed and smiling!
Let’s also debunk the myth of the high cost of living: for tourists, yes, prices might be a bit steep—for excursions, accommodation, food, and transport. But for residents, things are quite different: rents usually include heating, water, or electricity. Electricity itself is very cheap. Grocery shopping is no longer more expensive than my hometown in Italy.
And most importantly, Finland deeply respects work-life balance: people start work a bit earlier in the morning, but by 4 PM, most Finns are already heading home.
And then, in Rovaniemi, there’s the most special thing of all, the one everyone envies us for: Santa Claus. He’s the real one, in -lots- of flesh and bone, the true, official Santa, and he lives here! You can visit him in person at his Village and talk to him. In his house, you’ll see the gift packages ready to be sent, sorted by country, and even the clock he uses on Christmas Eve to slow down time so he can deliver presents to everyone.
In his room, a cheerful elf will welcome you, and the visit is entirely private and secret. Behind his house, you’ll find his reindeer, and just beyond, past the Arctic Circle line (which runs right through here), there’s the famous Santa Claus Post Office. Children can send their letters here, deliver them in person, or hand them to the elves to be sent. The Village is a blaze of lights, colours, and Christmas music playing on loop all year round, even in summer!
I truly believe that, at least once in a lifetime, one must experience the Great North with its auroras and ice. It feels like stepping into an enchanted place, yet one that is welcoming and simple, capable of instilling a deep sense of tranquillity.
When? From November to late March to experience a real winter. In summer, to escape the heat (but watch out for the Lappish mosquitoes!).
